By Maung Maung Aye
(Five-Terraced Paya) in Insein
Arlein-nga-sint Pagoda
When I was a boy, I lived with my family at a house on Insein Railway Station Road and frequented the Arlein-nga-sint Pagoda that was near our house. Thus, I had a strong desire to visit the Arlein-nga-sint Pagoda, which I had not reached for a long time since our family moved to a house in another town. An opportunity was offered to me last week.
That day, I alone took YBS No 6 bound from South Dagon for Hlinethaya. I got off at Sawbwagyigon junction. I noticed some men calling out “Bago! Bago!” as they mistook me for a traveller heading towards their buses. Nearby, hawkers were selling snacks and drinking water. Passing by them, I hurried towards the archway gate of the pagoda as the sun grew increasingly intense. I quickly walked across Sawbwagyigon Park. No time, I entered the precincts by the eastern archway gate.
The history of this pagoda goes thus: The Arlein-nga-sint Pagoda was founded on a five-acre wide estate on the 5th waxing day of Kason in 1320 ME by Sayadaw U Suriya, a monk of Kayin ethnicity. The then president, U Win Maung, laid the cornerstone. During his 35 Vasas (Rains Retreat), Sayadaw U Suriya undertook the missionary works seriously. He practised insight meditation seriously and preached the sermons on the four Noble Truths. He donated Buddha images, pagodas or stupas, monasteries, and hospitals for the Sangha. Thus, he became widely known as ‘Maha Sae Winkabar Sayadaw’, a revered figure across Myanmar during the 1960s. He demised at the age of 55 in his 35th Vasa. After his demise, Sayadaw U Panna Vumsa, and then Sayadaw U Agga Dhamma, succeeded him. Now, Venerable Sayadaw U Panna became a Presiding Sayadaw and proceeded to carry out the missionary undertakings.
I walked directly to the two-storeyed building that preserved the undecayed body of Sayadaw U Suriya, near the eastern archway gate. As I walked upstairs, I saw a glass coffin containing his gilt body lying peacefully. Even after many years, his body remained unchanged, which I understood as a symbol of spiritual purity and the eradication of mental defilements (Kilesa). I paid homage with deep reverence and looked up at the old photographs, including images of the Sayadaw preaching at Kyaikkasan Pagoda, as well as portraits of him and his parents. This experience filled me with faith and inner peace.
Glass coffin in which undecayed body of Sayadaw U Suriya is placed
The precincts of the pagoda were serene and refreshing. Surrounded by leafy and branching trees, the environment was cool and quiet, accompanied only by the gentle calls of birds. I observed many significant religious features, including about 126 pagodas, ancient Tazaung with fine architectural designs, sublime Buddha images, figures of alchemists, figures of the king and his subjects, a shrine in which Maha Pinnwe Nat (Ganesha) was housed, a sacred Bodhi tree where devotees pour water on Kason Full Moon Day, the Naga Yon Buddha image, Arlein Nanmyint, and Nat shrines. Altogether, these elements made the precinct a spiritually enriching place.
I , through the accessible staircase, ascended Arlein-nga-sint Pagoda (five-terraced Pagoda) . The level one was in the basement. The remaining levels or terraces were above the ground. Rising 180 feet to its sacred umbrella, with an equal circumference, its five terraces symbolize the five levels of Mount Meru. Each level is believed to be guarded by celestial beings such as Naga (Celestial Serpent), Garuda (Roc), Kumbhaṇḍas (Celestial Ogre), Gandharva (Celestial Being) etc. On the uppermost terrace, I saw a standing seven-foot-two-inch teak image of the Bodhisatta Ariya Metteya facing eastwards, and I paid homage to it. Then, I, to my heart’s content, enjoyed a panoramic view of the surrounding pagodas, missionary buildings, Sawbwagyigon Park, where some people were resting peacefully under the shade of large leafy trees and high-rise buildings that appeared recently. Then, I walked downstairs.
I entered a wide place that was like a maze well known as “A-Kwe-ta-thaung, A-kauk-ta-thaung” (အကွေ့တစ်ထောင်၊အကောက်တစ်ထောင်) in Myanmar. With thousands of paths, this place was very complicated. I found some small brick buildings in which only one person could meditate. I walked across this place.
Soon, I arrived at a large hall housing a colossal emerald-green seated Buddha image. This sublime image, said to have been donated by Sayadaw Venerable. Agga Dhamma, according to a dream, is believed to fulfil wishes. I paid homage and donated. Then, I looked around the wide hall in which many seated Buddha Images were housed. I looked up at the paintings of Buddha’s life on the ceiling. Then, I quietly moved on.
Seated emerald-green Buddha Image
I then visited another building where ancient royal crafts were displayed. There, I studied priceless artefacts once used in the courts of Myanmar kings. I paid homage to the Su-taung-pyi (wish-fulfilled) Buddha image, which had been worshipped by a line of six successive Myanmar kings, as well as the standing Adhithan Aung Buddha image once revered by King Pyu Saw Hti. These encounters deepened my appreciation of Myanmar’s rich religious and cultural heritage.
I got again to the place near the eastern archway gate to find a stage reading ‘Kayin New Year Day’.Suddenly, I had thought of a Kayin New Year Festival held in the precinct when I lived on Insein Railway Station Road. On Kayin New Year Day, Kayin New Year Festival was held on the grand scale. The precincts was live and agog with many pwe-goers. Kayin people performed their Kayin Donyein, a Kayin traditional team- dance, on this stage and sang their traditional songs, showcasing their cultural identity. Fund-raising ceremonies were also organized, and temporary galleries displayed portraits of Karen national leader Saw Ba U Gyi and other prominent figures. Numerous stalls sold souvenirs at reasonable prices, creating a lively and festive atmosphere. When thousands gather, the event becomes both joyful and meaningful, strengthening cultural unity. During the festival, there was a long row of food stalls along Lantit Road.
In conclusion, I obtained the religious benefits and came to know something about the culture of the Kayin people. The serene environment, remarkable architecture, historical significance, and vibrant traditions combined to leave a lasting impression on my mind. This visit strengthened my faith, broadened my understanding of Myanmar’s heritage, and filled me with a profound sense of peace and devotion.
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